The hard surfaces used in today’s homes consist of marble, tumbled stone, travertine, slate, onyx, granite, and limestone; paver, concrete and tile. We might treat them similarly, but due to their geological formation, mineral composition, and manufacturing processes, they can require different care and treatments. When cared for properly, they will outlast the life of your homes.
This overview explains the basic characteristics of your hard surfaces and how to best maintain their condition and presentation. For daily cleaning, we recommend using a non-rinse, neutral pH stone soap or non-acidic tile cleaners. It is always best to test cleaners first in an inconspicuous area before using them. If homeowner care is irregular or traffic is high, treatment will be needed more regularly.
Marble
The stone: Marble is the most versatile due to its wide range of colors and durability. The colors arise from various minerals leeching into limestone—many marbles are very old limestone—that metamorphose (transform) from exposure to heat, pressure, and water. Usually, marble has a polished or reflective finish; yet, a customized honed finish is available. The stone is not as durable as granite, but it is excellent in any area in the home.
Its care: If polished, marbles are susceptible to two major blemishes: scratches and etches. Scratches are caused by dirt and sand tracked through a home. (Floor mats, especially those made of natural fibers, will reduce scratches.) Etches are caused when an acidic or caustic liquid comes into contact with the calcium in the stone leaving a dull, whitish mark. With professional care, both problems are easily remedied. All marble should be sealed. Tumbled marble is treated similarly; still, care must be taken to keep its wider grout clean. Different kinds of treatments are necessary to restore marble to its original condition. Usually maintenance is needed about every 1 – 3 years depending upon wear, location, type, and care.
Slate
The stone: Slate is a natural stone comprised of various materials like clay, sand, silt, etc. It can be used either inside or outside a home. For a few months, newer floors can feel slightly gritty. It is normal for clay-enriched slate to separate in layers, especially outside the home. Exterior slate is more susceptible to mineral build-up where exposed regularly to water and the elements. A more viscous enhancer-sealer is best for slate. This not only repels liquids and provides better protection, but also enriches the stone’s natural color.
Its care: Neutral pH stone soap is best. A deck brush can be used to remove more soiled or mineral affected exterior areas. Care must be taken not to scrub too hard, as some slates are softer and particles can loosen. Standing water should be squeegeed, as mineral build-up can occur during evaporation. If additional treatment is needed, more aggressive, homeowner friendly cleaners and processes can be used. Depending on the sealing process, slate needs maintenance every 1 – 3 years depending on wear, location, type, and care.
Limestone/
Travertine
The stone: Generally, Travertine is older than limestone but not as old as marble. Travertine and limestone are more porous and softer than most other stones and are at the opposite end of granite in terms of hardness. Like marble, Travertine and limestone are rich in calcium. Usually these stones are honed in finish (versus a polished marble) and are rougher in texture. Honed stones like Travertine and limestone are known for their inherent variations in color, texture and finish. If not cared for properly, their surfaces can look dark and dingy from dirt and soil accumulation. Both must be sealed and sometimes require extra applications due to their porosity.
Its care: Depending on the type of Travertine or limestone, care must be taken during cleaning. Thorough vacuuming and mopping with clean water and neutral pH soap inhibit dirt and soil build-up. Every few months, bleach can be used to keep these more textured stones (even sanded grout) cleaner, and lighter and brighter in appearance. Depending upon wear, location, type, and care, stone will need professional maintenance every 1 – 3 years.
Granite
The stone: This is the most durable and densest of natural stones due to being formed during volcanic activity. Therefore, with the hardest minerals and fewer pores, most granite withstands heavier wear, naturally repels water and most acidic liquids, and is excellent anywhere in the home. If damaged or not cared for properly, granite is difficult to repair. It is important to note that granite is used as a generic term—some granites are not “true” granites.
Its care: Even though granite is very durable and some can naturally repel water, some caustic liquids and oils can still penetrate. These caustic liquids react with certain minerals and cause etching, dulling, and staining. Oil molecules are smaller and usually pass easily into the stone’s pores. Granite should be sealed with impregnating sealers. They help repel liquids and oils, and maintain the stone’s health. Granite needs maintenance every 2 – 4 years.
Paver/
Tile/
Concrete
The material: Many clients chose these materials due to their versatility, ease of
Concrete care and stylistic preferences. Tile, paver and concrete are mainly composed of rocks, minerals, and other additives. Depending on the material, they are “fired”, “sun dried” or “cured” leaving them with varying degrees hardness and porosity. Variations in the tile, paver and concrete color, texture and finish are expected since some is manufactured to appear much like stone and antique materials that can have a more rustic presentation.
Its care: Tile cleaners are readily available at hardware stores. Always follow directions and do not employ them on stone. Thorough vacuuming and mopping with clean water and neutral pH soap inhibit dirt and soil build-up on paver and grout. Depending upon wear, location, type, and care; tile, and its grout especially, and paver will need professional maintenance every 1 – 3 years.
Almost all stone and other hard surface problems are reparable.
All natural and man-made surfaces including grout develop a patina over time.
Floor mats, especially the thicker natural fiber mats, significantly help to reduce traffic patterns, dirt and soil build-up, and scratching.
Vacuums with rubber wheels and dry brush attachments that have total contact with the floor are best for removing dirt and soil.
Only use non-rinse, neutral pH stone soap and diluted, plain white bleach for cleaning natural stone. All other products are harmful and thereby not recommended. The same soap can be used for pavers. Non-acidic cleaners are best for man-made materials. Always read the directions.
Stone and man-made materials have nuances that we might consider undesirable, but they are common and expected. In the home construction industry, stone is usually rated with two factors in mind: esthetics and supply and demand.
Refinishing (wet sanding) is the only process that guarantees the removal of most sub-surface blemishes, like scratches, etches, dullness, and other marks from natural stone.
Other techniques are used on pavers. Stains, waxes, etc. are used to mask blemishes. More rustic-looking materials are purposely marked and scuffed.
Only polished stones are polished with stone polishing powders, creams, and chemicals. Most honed stones are not polished; nor should they be cosmetically treated with “glossy” coatings. (Refer to the “coatings” information below.)
Penetrating/Impregnating sealers provide protection and some time to clean-up spills. Yet, depending upon the spill and the stone, material or grout, some reactions can still occur, even if removed quickly. ATLAS uses a combination of sealers depending upon the material and its location to protect a surface.
Penetrating/Impregnating sealers provide protection and some time to clean-up spills. Yet, depending upon the spill and the stone, material or grout, some reactions can still occur, even if removed quickly. ATLAS uses a combination of sealers depending upon the material and its location to protect a surface.
Penetrating/Impregnating sealers are invisible, absorb into the pores and permit vapor transmission. They do not “coat” a surface. They help to repel various non-acidic/non-caustic liquids, such as water, oil, dirt and other contaminants. They minimize the affects of contaminants making homeowner care and professional maintenance easier and less costly.
Penetrating enhancer-sealers enrich the natural color of many materials. They provide creativity and greater protections especially for more porous materials.
Coatings/Topical/Film Forming sealers like waxes, acrylic and urethane are best for some man-made materials. Presently, wax is popular for some pavers. We discourage the use of coatings on stone due to many issues. Even though surfaces are superficially protected, coatings need to be stripped and reapplied regularly; and can clog pores (of natural stone) causing premature deterioration
According to suppliers and manufacturers, all stone and most other materials, should ONLY be treated with Penetrating/Impregnating sealers.
Repairs or filling cavities, holes, or veins involve injecting, or filling larger holes with polyester resins or Portland cement mixtures and may be performed in the factory or the field. Over time larger fills can loosen and fall out, and are repaired for a minimal cost during maintenance visits.
These differences can affect the stone’s presentation and finish adding to the variations expected. Fill materials will not match the stone in color, texture or finish and can be lower than the plane of the stone tile. Travertine and tumbled stone characteristically have numerous holes.
Different natural stone finishes wear differently and have their pluses and minuses. Therefore, a certain degree of flexibility must be maintained in understanding a naturally formed product.
Natural stone is quarried and processed rock. Inherent variations in color, texture, finish, pattern, etc. are to be expected. Any samples of a product shown for the purpose of selecting a particular type is representative and not an exact presentation of what one can expect. No two pieces of stone or other materials are identical. Also, it is important to understand that no natural or rustic product is blemish free.
Characteristics can include grain, fissures, pits, fossils, veins, holes, cavities, etc. Polished (glossy) and honed (matte) products may be treated in the factory with varying processes that can affect these characteristics. In some situations, enhancement and cosmetic treatments may be performed.
Tumbled stones and rustic pavers or concrete are treated in order to create a more rustic, antiqued finish. Different processes are employed. Also, chipped edges, chipped corners, irregular shape and different colors are common.
Maintenance is the responsibility of every homeowner. Even though, for example, stone can be millions of years old, no hard surface, not maintenance free. As stated earlier, stone behaves differently based on wear, location, type, and care. It can weather, much like it does in a natural environment, when exposed to the elements, water and high traffic.
Various environments and their contaminants can affect the appearance of any material. Regular exposure to water, minerals, shampoos, cleaners can cause chemical reactions leading to discoloration and wear. Regular maintenance keeps these surfaces presentable, and in good condition and repair.
Exterior stone does need minimal monthly attention that is usually performed by the groundskeepers. Usually, one can expect light mineral and soil build-up, and minor erosion over time due to regular exposure to the elements and especially water. Exterior stone will likely need professional care once every twelve to eighteen months.
With proper homeowner care and regular professional maintenance, stone, paver, tile and concrete will maintain its condition and repair for hundreds of years.
Grout is a cement material that can also have color variation. Dye lots, temperature, humidity, stone porosity, etc. can all affect the color of grout. Home settling, ground movement, wetter environments, exposure to the elements, high traffic, and other factors can result in hairline cracked or discolored grout, and require maintenance or repair. Grout may need attention after installation removing contaminants that resulted from drying and curing.
It is important to utilize licensed and reputable contractors. Industry standards are constantly being updated and improved. Only the best contractors are aware of these changes. For example, crack isolation/moisture retardant membranes are quickly becoming common industry practice. Other standards and processes have been developed to ensure the durability and integrity of all hard surfaces anywhere inside or outside the home.
ATLAS provides free in-home training, our Natural Stone Care Guide, and one liter of natural stone soap to ensure the condition and repair of the stone and other materials in your homes.
Floor Care Tips
Daily
Vacuum, dusty mop, or sweep floors. For best results, vacuum with a floor bush in complete contact with the stone. To keep edges cleaners, vacuum with a soft tip tool along baseboards.
Clean spills with a clean, dry cloth and the neutral pH soap spray solution as they accrue. Use a white scrub pad if necessary.
Weekly
Dilute one tablespoon of neutral pH soap in two gallons of warm water and damp mop the surface from side to side. Avoid reapplying dirt by keeping the solution clean (change every 250 sq. ft.). Do not re-mop surfaces with clean water, as you will remove the protectorants.
If light water spots are noticeable, buff with a soft dry cloth.
Periodically, for more soiled homed stones and light colored grout, dilute one cup of bleach with two gallons of warm water and mop as directed. Re-mop with the neutral pH soap. Protect carpets and sensitive areas
Be sure rugs are clean as dirt can scratch the stone’s finish. Do not put rugs down if back or floor is damp.
